Falmouth and South West Cornwall
Text from:
Falmouth & South West Cornwall Holiday Guide 1999.
Falmouth.
See also text - Ports and Harbours.
The name of Falmouth is inextricably linked with maritime history. Located on the sheltered bank of one of the finest natural harbours in the world, and at the mouth of a network of creeks and rivers, Falmouth was the port from which the renowned packet ships set sail to the Mediterranean and the Americas in the seventeenth century.
The Fal Estuary's deep water and sheltered anchorage have been of strategic importance to the defence of Britain since Tudor times. Any enemy ship securing the waters could easily land an army on the mainland. Henry VIII recognised this threat and built the sister castles of Pendennis and St. Mawes on opposite sides of the Carrick Roads Anchorage. Thus began one of the most fascinating stories of British coastal defence spanning 450 years. Pendennis Castle is a showcase of British history and one of Falmouth's principal attractions.
Falmouth is a veritable waterworld. Climb aboard one of the many pleasure boats and ferries which ply the local waters to St. Mawes, Flushing, Truro and the Helford Passage, and experience the maritime charm of this most beautiful part of Cornwall. For the more independent visitor, yachts can be chartered by the day from local businesses which are happy to provide a skipper so that you can simply relax and enjoy the view. For those who like terra firma, a hop-on hop-off road train travels a continuous circular route in season linking the town, beaches and castle, or you can join a guided maritime walk led by our qualified Blue Badge Guides, just ask at the Tourist Information Centre for details.
From the first custom built tourist hotel in 1865 to today's impossibly futuristic Ships and Castles Leisure Pool, the resort has invested in its future and is rapidly developing an international reputation as one of the great sailing and watersports centres of the world. Falmouth's International Maritime Centre opening to the public in 2001, will house the National Maritime Museum, an events plaza and yachting centre.
Falmouth's bustling town centre contains many of the expected high-street names, alongside specialist craft shops, fresh seafood sellers, chandlers and vendors of all things nautical. Laced with many notable buildings such as the King's Pipe which was used to burn contraband tobacco in the days of smuggling, the town has a reassuring warmth and offers an exciting range of opportunities and watersports activities.
In Victorian times, Falmouth's world wide links across the seas, led to the development of large private gardens, later donated to the local people, containing wonderfully exotic plants. Owing to the incredibly humid climate, species such as Citrus, Daturas, Dracaena Palms, Camellias, Abutilons, Azaleas, Rhododendrons and many unusual species of bamboo still thrive today, and at Fox Rosehill Gardens banana trees grow in the open! in addition to Falmouth's four central public gardens of Kimberley Park, Gyllyngdune, Fox Rosehill and Queen Mary, winner of the Green Flag Award for both 1998 and 199, the vast gardens of Trelissick, Glendurgan and Trebah are all within easy reach.
Penryn.
Penryn, at the head of its own river, is the nearest town to Falmouth. Founded in 1216, Penryn was a thriving port in the 1600s, handling the shipment of locally mined tin and copper. Today, Penryn has retained an enormous amount of its architectural heritage. Its array of Tudor, Jacobean and Georgian buildings has established the town as an Outstanding Conservation Area, richly steeped in history. During the summer months, Penryn celebrates this history with the famous Lady Jane Killigrew festival including a torchlight procession, carnival and street fair.
Flushing and Mylor.
Across the Penryn River from Falmouth lies the waterside village of Flushing. Reputed to have the mildest climate in the whole of England, you can walk from here around the headland to Mylor Harbour and Churchtown, looking across the mouth of Carrick roads to the Roseland Peninsula. Mylor Bridge, at the head of Mylor Creek, from which the stone to build Truro Cathedral was shipped, is now a modern yachting harbour, catering for the needs of both local clubs and visiting sailors. The charming waterside village at the head of Restronguet Creek captures the idyllic nature of the area with whitewashed, thatched cottages with moorings at the bottom of the garden.
Feock.
Hidden away past the turning to the King Harry Ferry, which connects the Truro side of the Fal River with the Roseland Peninsula is the village of Feock, on of the most attractive hamlets in Cornwall.
Tolverne.
Heading up the Fal toward Truro, you come to Tolverne, an embarkation point for American troops during the D-Day landings. Smuggler's Cottage on the water's edge was requisitioned by the American military during the Second World War and President Eisenhower stayed there. It is now a popular restaurant and cream tea haunt with an extensive collection of memorabilia from the period and a permanent display highlighting the role the area played during the war. The creeks and rivers are best explored by taking on of the pleasure boats or passenger ferries which ply between Truro, Malpas, Tolverne and Falmouth during the season. (See text - Ports & Harbours).
Truro.
The capital of Cornwall is a charming pocket-sized city of elegant Georgian buildings, cobbled alley ways and a myriad of interlinking lanes, set at the head of the Truro River which flows down to Falmouth and out into the Carrick Roads.
Nestling among the shops and houses at the heart of the city, Truro cathedral was completed as recently as 1910 and incorporates the original parish church of St. Mary's. Its distinctive three spires rise high above the city's bustling shopping streets which combine many of the more fashionable high street names alongside tiny specialist stores catering for the needs of discerning shoppers from 'foodies' to design fashion connoisseurs to watersports fanatics. Visit a few of Truro's increasing number of tearooms, bistros and pubs where you can take time out to watch the world go by.
During the annual jazz Festival, the streets become a stage for colourful buskers and entertainers who perform anything from mime to fire eating. the city's parks and gardens play host to a season of free daytime entertainment including Punch and Judy and musical performances. In winter, the streets are a-glow with the City of Lights lantern procession and street fair, which marks the start of Christmas late night shopping.
With the opening of the Hall For Cornwall theatre complex, the city now attracts a wide range of top performers and events and is capable of presenting the finest in performing arts with a year round programme of activities. Flea markets and antique fairs use the venue during the daytime and are well worth a peek! Truro is also home to the newly refurbished Royal Cornwall Museum and Art Gallery, where visitors can follow the story of Cornwall from the Stone Age to the present day. The Museum often plays host to touring national and international exhibitions as well as displaying the resident collection of works by Constable, Lowry and the Newlyn School of Artists.
Take the chance to explore the rivers and creeks that spread south from Truro. Climb aboard a ferryboat from Truro's Town Quay to Falmouth, a truly magical journey along one of the most beautiful stretches of river in the country.
The Lizard Peninsula.
The Lizard Peninsula is, quite simply, unique. Standing alone in a very real sense, the Peninsula is physically separate from the main backbone of Cornwall and the saying 'off the beaten track' is an appropriate one for this largely undiscovered treasure. Designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, much of the coastline falls under the stewardship of the National Trust. The South West Coast Path - winding its way around the Peninsula - provides exceptionally beautiful walks for ramblers of all ages and ability.
This is a place of contrasts. The dramatic cliffs around Kynance, Mullion and Lizard Point present a rugged face to the elements while, to the east, greener landscape of the Helford River shows the visitor an entirely different side to this enchanted area.
As mainland Britain's most southerly point, the Lizard Peninsula enjoys the full benefit of the Gulf Stream - making the weather perfect for out of season breaks. the effect of this climate on local flora is outstanding, sub-tropical vegetation providing a profusion of colour for most of the year.
The Lizard is a naturalist's delight, Spring arrives early and presents a wide range of both are and common flowers. Hedgerows are full of foxgloves, primroses, violets and wild garlic. seals basking sharks and dolphins are commonly seen and the rock pools are full of fascination. The area is perhaps most rewarding for the ornithologist as there are many rare bird species - resident summer visitors and passerines. Although most people arrive in Summer, many others now follow the birdwatchers in Autumn - when Indian Summers are common - or in early Spring, when a large number of migrant birds can be spotted.
Lizard Point.
Lizard Point itself has a brooding and awe inspiring beauty, its lighthouse flashing out a 29 mile beam to guide mariners navigating the English Channel. In Summer, the cliffs and seas around the Lizard appear benign and friendly, but in Winter - with gales lashing the coast - one is reminded of the awesome power of the sea and of the many shipwrecks and tales of heroism which are legend around these waters.
St. Martin, Cury, Porthoustock, Porthallow and Ruan Minor.
To the east of Lizard Village lie further treasures - pretty hamlets such as St. Martin, Cury, Porthoustock, Porthallow and Ruan Minor await exploration and there are ideal family beaches such as Kennack Sands - where Daphne du Maurier learned to swim as a child.
Cadgwith and Coverack.
Echoes of a proud fishing industry remain in Cadgwith and Coverack, where a small fleet of local fishing boats still survives. These are archetypal Cornish fishing villages; a cluster of nets, lobster pots and boats lying together within the protective granite arms of the harbour. there are cosy, whitewashed cottages, a maze of back-streets and lanes and a pub or two, where locals recount tales of the sea. Visit Cadgwith on a gig racing day and join in the friendly rivalry as local teams battle it out in brightly coloured craft or try watersports such as snorkelling, scuba diving or windsurfing at nearby Coverack.
St. Keverne.
St. Keverne is the natural focus for this part of the Peninsula - pubs, restaurants and shops enclose the village square, which comes alive throughout the summer months with band concerts and the annual Ox Roast. Just outside the village, a statue commemorating the 500th anniversary of the 1497 Cornish Rebellion is well worth a visit, or seek out the memorial plaque to the executed leaders of the march, which can be seen on the church wall.
Goonhilly.
The open plateau of Goonhilly Downs is unique, an extensive heath of international importance. Giant tracking dishes of the British Telecom Satellite Earth Station are visible on the Downs for many miles, creating an almost surreal landscape as they cast long shadows across prehistoric burial barrows, menhirs and standing stones. Surrounded by the technology of tomorrow, one can simply stand here and look back to yesterday and beyond, across a span of some 3,000 years.
Mullion.
Mullion is the largest settlement on the Lizard and makes an ideal base from which to explore the rest of the Peninsula. A bustling village centre offers the visitor a range of shopping, places to eat and a local crafts centre, while Mullion Cove itself is a remarkable sight - huge cliffs towering protectively above the pretty working harbour. Within easy reach of Mullion too are the popular sandy beaches of Polurrian, Poldhu and Gunwalloe.
Kynance Cove.
Head south from Mullion, along a spectacular section of the coastal footpath, to Kynance Cove - the picture postcard spot that was once the favourite destination of wealthy Victorian 'excursionists'. As well as golden sands, Kynance is renowned for its huge and dramatic outcrops of serpentine, a dark rock mottled and veined with green red and white which is unique to the Lizard. One of the oldest rock types in Britain, visitors to the Peninsula can see serpentine fashioned into collectable souvenirs at one of several serpentine turners' workshops on the Lizard.
The Helford River.
The Helford River, immortalised by Daphne du Maurier in her romantic novel Frenchman's Creek, presents an entirely different landscape to the rest of the Lizard, and indeed from the rest of Cornwall. This is a lush wooded river world of inlets and creeks, of sub-tropical gardens and riverside villages, of oyster beds and sailing ships and people 'messing about in boats'.
Much of the area is best discovered on foot. Explore by car and the river, glimpsed through a curtain of trees, will stay tantalisingly out of reach. Peaceful villages stowaway in the folds of this landscape: Helford Village with its riverside setting; the ancient churches of Mawgan, Manacan and St. Anthony; and Gweek, home to the National Seal Sanctuary.
From the picturesque villages of Constantine and Mawgan you can meander down gladed footpaths to creeks such as Port Navas or Polwherveral, with their oyster beds and yacht moorings. strike north from Mawbnan Smith to the lush gardens of Penjerrick, or south for the exotic gardens sloping gently down to the river at Glendurgan and Trebah. Durgan a tiny hamlet, is typical of the riverside scenery in these parts. Busy yourself doing absolutely nothing; relax, unwind and watch the river - and the world float by.
Helston.
The internationally famous springtime Festival of the Furry, or Flora, Dance has become synonymous with the town of Helston. This pre-Christian folk festival ushers in the 'prosperous harvest' and is held this year on 8th May. Flora Day is celebrated in a carnival atmosphere of colour and music - the town is decked with bluebells, gorse and laurel leaves as the town's children and adults dance their way in and out of the streets, alleyways and shops.
Nestled in a wooded valley to the north of the Lizard Peninsula, Helston is perhaps the least changed of all Cornwall's main towns. To walk the streets and cobbled alleyways of Helston is to get a sense of its history - a journey started with a visit to the town's fascinating Folk Museum.
Helston also has plenty of modern day attractions including shops, pubs and restaurants, sports clubs, boating lake and the popular Flambards Theme Park. Nature lovers can enjoy pretty walks alongside the River Cober at Penrose, or a visit to the recently restored Trevarno Estate and Gardens.
Head away from the town past Loe Pool - the largest freshwater lake in Cornwall, separated only from the sea by a long sand bar - towards the coast and Porthleven ....
Porthleven.
With its narrow streets climbing the hillsides and its distinctive harbour, Porthleven was once a centre for boat building - its long harbour wall protecting the port from winter south westerly winds. Nowadays, Porthleven successfully combines the activities of a working port with those of a popular holiday resort.
This is indeed a happy mix which ensures that the village is alive with gift shops, galleries, a diverse range of restaurants, comfortable pubs and cafes - trading alongside fishmongers, boatbuilders and chandlers. There is also a sheltered beach, popular with families, and access to breathtaking coastal walks to the east and west of the village.
Praa Sands.
A mile long sweep of sand and surf - Praa Sands enjoys a reputation as one of Cornwall's finest family beaches, ideal for bathing, surfing and all kinds of associated water activities. Even at the height of the season, the beach is never crowded and this small; friendly resort offers a range of places to stay including seaside caravan and camping parks. beyond the beach a landscape of rolling hills beckons, dotted with interesting villages, medieval churches and historic sites.
Germoe and Breage.
At Germoe you can find the arched stone seat of St. Germoe in the churchyard, while at the church of St. Breaca at Breage you can admire the 15th century wall paintings and a 3rd century Roman milestone. There are magnificent views across Mount's Bay and the Lizard from Tregonning Hill near Ashton, while to the west of Praa Sands lies Kennegy Cove and beyond that the sheltered inlet of Prussia Cove. the coast path east takes you past the giant bluffs of Rinsey Head and Trewarvas Head with their engine houses perched an the cliff edge.
Tin Mining Country.
As one heads north towards the towns of Camborne and Redruth, there are yet more dramatic changes to the surrounding landscape. North of Helston lies a chequerboard of fields, footpaths and shady country lanes - farmlands dotted with pretty hamlets: Breage Crowan, Sithney, Godolphin, Stithians .... each one a cluster of granite cottages around a fine church. This truly is the best of both worlds - rural splendour yet only minutes away from the sea, to the north and south.
This is Tin Mining Country, and relics of the area's rich industrial past are all around. Cornwall's thriving mining activities of the 18th and 19th centuries are distant memories now, but the ivy covered engine houses with their tall chimneys still preside over this landscape and serve as a permanent reminder of times past. Miners' cottages still stand - many a s family homes - and offer a glimpse of the lives and endeavours of the mining workforce.
Camborne and Redruth.
These neighbouring towns were once the hub of the most intensively mined area in the world. Today, they are bustling centres offering full amenities and plenty to occupy the family on days away from the beach. The mining legacy has not been forgotten however, and each year both towns celebrate their proud heritage in a blaze of colour - Camborne with Trevithick Day in April and Redruth with Murdoch Day in June.
Looming high above both towns is the granite tor of Carn Brea, crowned by its stark memorial to the mine owner Francis Bassett, with spectacular views across Tin Mining Country to the north cliffs, Portreath and St. Ives Bay.
Top